When I bought the Nissan Xterra heavily advertised is a neat little item: an interior bike rack. It mounts into the rails in the back and has a quick release skewer that mounted the front fork.
Big problem: no one bought them. Nissan had only 4 of them in their inventory nationwide, and the total cost to get one to Pittsburgh was about $450. Fuck that.
So instead, I made a simple one out of Thule and Yakima parts (pics below). Here is how:
With the exception of the hardware, I got all parts from eBay. You’ll need a saw of some sort with a metal blade (I used a Sawzall), and a drill with a 3/4″ bit to drill 2 holes per bike mount.
The process was simple…
Get a pair of 50″ Thule square crossbars and cut to fit the interior. I believe I my final length was 46″.
Then using a Yakima Blockhead as a template, drill two 3/4″ holes in the crossbar. Line the holes up where you’d like the bike to sit in the truck. The car is wide enough to accommodate two, possibly 3 bikes depending on how you space them. Best bet it to put one behind the drivers seat and one behind the front passenger.
Once the holes are drilled, mount the Blockhead to your crossbar with 3/4″ bolts.
Thread two 6mm x 50mm bolts through the bolt holes of 2 Yakima 4H mounts. The ends of these bolts will thread into the metal track bolt that came with your rear net mounts.
Thread the large holes of the 4H mounts of your cross bar, insert the track bolts into the tracks in the rear of the car, then tighten them down. Viola, you’ve got an interior bike rack. Remove your front wheel from the front fork, and latch your front fork into the Yakima quick release.
Parts List and Approximate Costs
|Yakima Blockhead (9mm Skewer, nonlocking)||$30||$20 to $30||Link|
|Yakima 4H Mounts||$35 for 4||$20 for 4||Ebay|
|50″ Thule Square Crossbars||$80/pair||$20/pair||Ebay|
|2 6mm x 50mm bolts||$2|
|4 3/4″ x 2″ nylon bolts/nuts||$2|
Posted in Mechanical, Mountain Biking, Outdoors, Riding by admin with 10 comments.
I think I’ve said this before, but I can’t fathom why more people don’t ride Mingo Creek Park, in Washington PA. I realize it doesn’t have the mileage of Bavington or LOL LOG PILES!!1 of North Park. What you’ve got is a ride through several different sets of conditions. Each one is a little but more fun then the one you’ve just cut across.
You’ve got grueling steep climbs up unforgiving rocky horse paths. You’ve got fast and loop descents with plenty of roots to put you on your ass. I’ve got hidden single track through overgrown glades of tall grass.
You encounter groomed trails, overgrown single trail, soft surface pine groves, surprise mud bogs and creek crossings. Each time I ride this park I end up liking it just a little bit more.
7.75 miles — 0 otb — 2000 calories
See the full track statistics here
Posted in Mechanical, Mountain Biking, Ride Reports, Riding and tagged Mingo Creek, Mountain Biking, Ride Report, Ride Reports, Rides by admin with no comments yet.
Swapping out a (junk) from crankset off of the Hardrock. Was originally a Shimano FC-M191 (24/34/42). Suprisingly difficult to get a hold of . Ordered it off of bikeparts.com, and it turned out they were sold out. So they (no charge) upgraded me to a better front crank (click for link).
But the geometry doesn’t seem to line up, or I’m doing something wrong. Specifically the front derailleur doesn’t seem to have enough travel to shift to the outermost ring, even if I crank its limit all the way out. Does the front derailleur have to match the “parts group” of the front crank? Anyone know?
Posted in Mechanical, Mountain Biking, Photography, Riding and tagged Front Crank, Front Derailleur, Mechanical, Mountain Biking by admin with no comments yet.